REPAIR MANUAL
No. 216
SHEAFFER´S
PENS – PENCILS + DESK SETS + SKRIP
SKRIP-GRIP PARA-LASTIK
W. A. Sheaffer Pen Co., Fort Madison, lowa
CONTENTS
1. Pen and pencil parts. Go.
2. Repairs tools. Go.
3. To fill a lever type pen. Go.
4. To fill a plunger type pen. Go.
5. Washing and cleaning. Go.
6. Servicing clogged pens. Go.
7. Dismantling a lever type pen. Go.
8. Adjustment of the lever type filling mechanism. Go.
8.1. Lever assembly.
8.2. Bar assembly.
9. Dismantling the vacuum-fil plunger type pen. Go.
10. Assembling the vacuum-fil plunger type pen. Go.
11. Straightening the gold point. Go.
12. Spacing the point. Go.
13. Mounting the point. Go.
14. Attaching the sac. Go.
15. Mounting the feed to the point. Go.
16. Smoothing the point. Go.
17. Fitting the cap. Go.
18. Visulated pens with Last-Drop Visibility. Go.
19. Assembling sacs in twist-sac Pens. Go.
20. Pencil service. Go.
21. Triumph pen. supplement. Go.
PEN AND PENCIL PARTS
TOOLS FOR ADJUSTING AND REPLACING BAR, LEVER AND SAC IN LEVER TYPE PENS.
TOOLS FOR ADJUSTMENT OF PLUNGER IN PLUNGER TYPE PENS
TOOLS FOR POINT AND FEED ADJUSTMENT
TOOLS FOR CLEANING AND POLISHING
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 6.
TO FILL A LEVER-TYPE PEN
The routine for filling a fountain pen is important and too often essential details are overlooked.
- Press all air from the sac by raising the lever.
- Place the entire point and part of the section under the surface of the writing fluid so air will be prevented from entering the sac.
- Close the lever. Let the point remain under the fluid from seven to ten seconds (long counts) to give the sac time to draw in the fluid. Improper filling causes many pens to be criticized for not holding enough fluid.
- Hold the pen with the point down so the excess fluid will run to the tip, then wipe it with an absorbent cloth.
Important: Wipe all fluid from the point before placing the cap over it.
Complaints of pens leaking often arise because the writing fluid is not wiped from the section: and threads before the cap is screwed on. Then, when the cap is removed and writing fluid is found on the threads and section and in the cap, it is assumed that the pen leaks.
TO FILL A PLUNGER-TYPE PEN
- Unscrew the barrel-cap and pool out the plunger as far as possible.
- Place the entire point and part of the section into the writing fluid.
- Push the plunger in slowly and use care that part of the section remains under the surface of the writing fluid.
- Wipe the excess fluid from the point, the same as outlined in paragraph 4 above.
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 7.
WASHING AND CLEANING
1, – Pens which are not clogged may be washed by alternately filling them with clean, cool water and emptying, using on filling device.
Never use hot’ water for heat tends to soften the feed and section and cause the point to become loose.
- If no water can be taken in by the filling device it will be necessary to dismantle the pen so the feed channel can be cleaned.
SERVICING CLOGGED PENS
Caused usually by being filled with dirty or poor-quality ink.
TO PREVENT CLOGGING:
- Use the best grade of writing fluid.
Our recommendation to all fountain pen users I that they use SKRIP to the exclusion of all other writing fluids. SKRIP was produced by Sheaffer in self-defense after realizing that ink would not give satisfaction for any length of time if used in a fountain pen. Most inks have an acid reaction while SKRIP does not. The ingredients in SKRIP will not injure any part of the pen. There is no sediment to clog the feed. It will not ‘dry on the: nib, and it always flows freely and dries evenly and quickly on the paper.
- A pen should be cleaned frequently—fill and empty several times with cold water.
- NEVER MIX WRITING FLUIDS—Neither in pens nor in bottles. No two writing fluids are chemically alike and if mixed will neutralize each other. Sometimes such mixtures will form a thin, light colored, watery fluid while others will form a thick gummy residue inside the pen which will clog the feed and stop the flow of writing fluid.
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 8.
DISMANTLING A LEVER TYPE PEN
- Empty the pen of writing fluid.
- Remove the section from the barrel.
Twist or work the section out of the barrel. Use a rubber strip if necessary, to provide a grip and protect the fingers.
On pens with transparent sections first break the shellac seal as described on page 22.
- Remove the sac from the section.
Catch the end of the sac with the thumb nail and with the end of thumb roll the sac off the section.
If the sac is not torn when removed from the section and the rubber is good –test by stretching– it can be re-used if washed and dried.
- Drive the feed and point out of the section, (Illustration No.1)
- Wash point, section and feed.
(a) “Open-channel” feed:
Make certain that all sediment is removed from feed channel. Use a brush such as a toothbrush if necessary. Occasion ally one may have to run the tip of a knife blade thru each of the three grooves in the bottom of the channel to remove the hard sediment.
(b) “Tip-fill’ feed:
Place the rubber cleaning bulb either on the end of the feed or the end of the section assembled with the feed and draw in and expel the cleaning fluid thru the feed. (Illustration No, 2)
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 9.
ADJUSTMENT OF LEVER-TYPE FILLING MECHANISM
LEVER ASSEMBLY
(A) To assemble the lever which is held in place by a ring inside the barrel:
- Place a wire lever ring thru the hole in the lever, then place the large end of the lever in the end of the lever assembly tool. The end of the wires should point back toward the tool handle. (Illustration No. 8).
- With this tool. thread the lever thread the slot in the barrel from the inside. When the end of the lever extends thru the slot. grasp it with thumb and finger and remove the tool.
- Spring the lever ring into position in the groove inside the barrel by moving the lever toward the groove. A hook shaped tool, such as the bar puller, may be used to forces the ring into the groove should it fail at first to snap into place.
- B) To assemble the lever which is held in place by a wire run thru the barrel walls:
This style lever is assembled in the bar rel after the bar has been put in place.
- Lay the lever. finished side up, on the bar in the barre slot.
- Thread a piece of lever wire thru the barrel drillings and the lever.
The pressure of the bar against the lever should hold the lever firmly in place but the lever should not push the bar away from the inside barrel wall.
(a) To test for play: Hold the barrel with the lever down. Pull down the lever about 1/16 of an inch (3mm.) then release. If the lever snaps back into place and the bar does not hang away from the inside wall of the barrel the lever adjustment is correct.
(b) If the lever has play, that is, hangs down, remove the lever and increase the width of the slot in the thick end.
(c) If the lever presses the bar too far away from the barrel, de decrease the width of the slot.
(3) Pull-the wire out slightly and cut it off close to the barrel with the side cutting pliers. The wire should be cut short enough so neither end extends out of the barrel when it is pushed back into place.
(4) Fill in holes with wax the same color as the barrel.
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 10.
ADJUSTMENT OF LEVER-TYPE FILLING MECHANISM
ADJUSTMENT OF THE BAR AND LEVER:
The bar and lever are in proper adjustment when the lever, in a raised position, is stopped by the bar at a right angle with the barrel.
Should the bar stop the lever before it is at a right angle, the bar should be pushed farther into the barrel.
If the lever goes beyond a right angle the bar has been pushed too far and should be pulled back until the lever is again at right angles.
Should the lever turn over, straight ten the bar in the barrel so the lever will strike the stop.
The lever must be closed when making adjustments on the bar.
BAR ASSEMBLY
- The two-piece bar with collar is used in all fat end barrels and Streamlined Balance barrels with solid ends.
To remove this bar, use the bar puller with the solid hook.
To Assemble Grasp collar as illustrated (No. 3) and start it into barrel with bar in line with lever slot. Use bar pusher to push bar into place. Test for correct position as outlined above.
- The embossed, one-piece bar with single hook (Illustration No. 4) is used in regular and small size, Balance barrels with hollow ends.
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 11.
To remove this bar, use the two-pronged hook as illustrated. (Illustration No. 5).
To place this bar in a barrel, first place it on the bar pusher, hold it down with the fore-finger and push into position.
Test as outlined above.
- The embossed, one-piece bar with double reverse hook (Illustration No. 6) is used in the large size Balance barrels with hollow ends.
To remove this style, use the two pronged hook as illustrated. (Illustration No. 7)
Place this bar in a barrel, using the same method as on the bar above except it is necessary to push on the reverse hook to set the bar in place.
Test same as the above bars.
IMPORTANT: Any style bar must be straight when assembled and must lie close against the inside barre wall. It must not press on the sac fur such pressure will cause a pen to flow unevenly.
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 12.
DISMANTLING THE VACUUM-FIL PLUNGER TYPE PEN
(1) Empty writing fluid and rinse pen by filling with cold water.
{2) To Remove Section:
Wrap two thicknesses of rubber inner tube around section, grip with section removing pliers and turn to LEFT. (Illustration No. 9)
(3) To Remove Plunger:
(a) Unscrew barrel cap and pull out plunger. Loosen locknut with wrench and remove barrel cap. (Illustration No. 10)
Use the slotted screwdriver for WASP Vacuum-Fil pens. (Illustration No. 11)
(b) Push plunger back into barrel and with plunger removing tool push thru packing washers.
ASSEMBLING THE WASP VACUUM FIL, PLUNGER TYPE PEN
(1) To Replace Plunger:
(a) Place plunger assembly lead on threads of plunger rod and push into barrel from section end. (Illustration Nos.12 & 13)
(b) Screw locknut on plunger rod. Then screw on barrel cap. Tighten locknut against barrel cap with wrench. ([Illustration No. 10)
On WASP Vacuum-Fil screw large brass button on plunger rod first, then screw on the small locknut and tighten. (Illustration No. 11)
(2) To Replace Section:
- Scrape the threads of the section across a bar of soap so as to fill the threads with the soap.
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 13.
- Start section into barrel and tighten, using pliers and piece of rubber. (Illustration No. 9)
The shoulder of the section must be drawn up firmly against the barrel but not enough to bulge the barre threads and cause the cap to bind.
THE BARREL- PLUG
IMPORTANT: Do not attempt to remove the barrel-plug unless fluid leaks out between the threads of the plug and the barrel. When the plug is moved the barrel-cap fit is thrown off for it is seldom that the barrel-plug can be replaced in its original position.
If a leak occurs it is probably caused by a faulty seal-washer.
(1) To Remove the Barrel-Plug:
(a) Fit the special pliers with the threaded jaws carefully onto the barrel- lug. With a firm grip on the pliers, turn to the RIGHT for this is a LEFT- HAND thread.
(b) Lift out and replace seal-washer with the small wire hook,
(2) To Replace the Barrel-Plug:
(a) See that the seal-washer fits smoothly on its seat.
(b) With the plug-pliers screw the barrel-plug firmly into place.
NOTE: The above procedure can be followed on all models of Plunger type pens except those of small diameter and those having entire barrel made of the same transparent material. The barrel-plugs in these cannot be removed. If faulty, drill out and cement in a new packing unit.
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 14.
STRAIGHTENING THE GOLD POINT
Points which are bent in at the tip can be adjusted by burnishing the outside edge of the gold point where the bend occurs while the iridium tip is resting. on a leather pad, (Illustration No. 14)
Points that are forked at the tip are treated as above except:
that the uppermost side is pushed away with the tip of the burnisher while burnishing the inside of the lower point. (Illustration No.15)
Points must be spaced the same width on the face as on the back.
(Illustrations No. 16, 17 and 18)
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 15.
Points that are spaced wider on the face can be adjusted by springing the shoulders of the point together slightly. (Illustration No. 19).
Points that are open wider on the back than on the face are adjusted by pressing the point lightly across the heart with the pliers. (Illustration No. 20)
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 16.
SPACING THE POINT
The How of the pen is regulated by the width of the spacing which varies according to the fineness of the point.
A needle point makes a fine line and requires little spacing while a coarse point makes a heavy line and requires a wider space.
The points should always be far enough apart so a space of light can be seen the entire length of the slit.
Points which do not have enough space are adjusted by raising first one side, then the other, away from the feed or writing surface.
Grasp the point with the smooth jaw pliers and lift or spring up alternate sides. Do not make an abrupt bend in the point. (Illustration No. 21).
When the point is spaced too much, reverse the process and spring the sides down.
Caution: Keep the plier jaws away from the iridium tip or the iridium will be broken off. (Illustrations No. 21 and 22)
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 17.
MOUNTING THE POINT
Make certain that all parts are clean before they are assembled.
The feed should fit snugly in the section so the point will be held tight and, to prevent the writing fluid from leaking out.
The point should be even along the slit and at the tip before it is pushed.
Place the point squarely on the feed. Tip of feed should he about 1/8 inch (3mm.) back from end of point.
Start feed and point into section with fingers. Grip feed and point in pushing pliers as illustrate (No. 23) and push or drive section onto feed and point. Make certain that point is pushed far enough by checking on point pushing gauge. This is important for if the point extends out too far, the iridium will be broken off when the cap is screwed on. Push point to the depth indicated on chart supplied with point pushing gauge.
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 18.
ATTACHING THE SAC
Spread shellac around sac end of section (1).
Slip sac on section using sac spreader. (Illustration No. 24)(2).
Use care that no shellac gets on end of feed to stop it up.
Allow several minutes for shellac to dry before filling pen.
Sac must fit free in the barrel.(3)
To Test—Slip sac into barrel until section touches and turn section to see if sac will catch and twist.
If the sac twists, the bar hangs too far from the barrel wall and must be adjusted. Refer to “Bar Assembly.”
When the adjustment is completed, for uniform appearance, push the section into the barrel with the point in line with the lever.(4)
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 19.
MOUNTING THE FEED TO THE POINT
It is essential that the feed fit tightly all along the underside of the point to insure a correct flow.
- The feed is made of hard rubber and by quickly passing it through a flaine a number of times, the rubber absorbs the heat and becomes pliable.
Use care to keep the section from the heat as it will soften if heated and cause the point to become loose.
- The feed, when pliable, is mounded against the point by pressing it with the forefinger. When the feed has been mounted to the point, dip it in water. This cools the feed and causes it to retain its moulded form.
TO INSPECT:
- Face a light and with the point in a horizontal position (Illustration No. 25) examine it with the magnifying glass to determine if light shows between the feed and the point. (Illustrations No. 26 and 27)
After the feed has been properly moulded, give the point a final inspection to see that it is aligned and “spaced” correctly and the feed is down tight against the point.
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 20.
SMOOTHING THE POINT
A scratchy point is usually caused by the iridium tips being out of line.
Often this is the result of the point having been struck or pushed slightly to one side, causing an uneven pressure of the feed against the point.
This can be corrected by pushing the point back in line with the feed, using the fingers.
If the tips are even and the point scratches, the iridium may have a sharp or rough spot. This is removed on a special grade of fine smoothing paper. This paper should be placed on a firm smooth surface and a light coat of rouge rubbed over it to reduce the cutting power and to polish the iridium.
To smooth the point, hold the pen in a writing position and move it in small circles, not too fast, and finish up by writing continuous figure 8’s.
As the point is moved over the paper, the position of the pen should be changed continuously so a flat face will not be worn on the tip. Use only moderate pressure and finger movement in making small circles and figure 8’s. (Illustration No. 28)
Care and skill must be exercised or more harm than good will be done.
Never rub the point on a stone or rough abrasive of any kind. The iridium must have a smooth, mirror-like finish and any scratch or rough spot will be noticed when the point is used.
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 21.
FITTING THE CAP
It is important that the cap fit properly on the pen. The cap should screw on smoothly until the inner cap meets the section. An extra twist should then be given the cap to make the proper air-tight seal at this joint.
Should the threads in the cap become worn to such an extent that the cap will not tighten but continues to turn, it will be necessary to send the pen to the factory for the cap to be rethreaded and fitted to the barrel.
The cap should fit snugly enough on the back end of the barrel so it will not work off when the pen is in use, nor fall off when: the pen is held with the cap down. If the fit is not satisfactory, do not attempt to improve it by roughing up the end of the barrel. This ruins the finish and seldom does any good. Any repair shop equipped with a lathe can quickly shrink the cap bead so it will fit properly.
TO INCREASE CLIP TENSION:
Hold down ball of clip with thumb and raise back of clip with burnisher or smooth jaw pliers. (Illustration No. 29)
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 22.
VISULATED PENS WITH TRANSPARENT SECTIONS
The material from which these sections are made is soluble in alcohol, therefore, never use alcohol to clean or rinse a pen which contains one of these sections.
These sections are cemented into the barrel with shellac.
To remove:
First break the shellac seal between the section and the barrel by striking the barrel threads several quick blows with the wooden handle of the burnisher, a fiber hammer or some such tool—a hard faced tool will damage the threads. Then grasp the barrel firmly in one hand and with the thumb and finger of the other work the section out of the barrel.
The feed is of special design and requires a special feed punch to drive it from the section without breaking the insert extension.
The transparent section is manufactured with a hard rubber sleeve inside it to hold the gold point. To avoid stripping this out of the section when the feed is driven out, hold the section so the edge of this sleeve rests on the bench knock-out block. Should the sleeve come out press it back into place.
The feed has three parts: (Illustration No. 30) the finger or main portion, the sleeve, and the insert.
The insert should fit loosely in the finger with the beveled end toward the point. The sleeve fits over the insert with a high friction and holds it into the finger by fitting snugly into the back of the finger.
The sleeve should be assembled with the small hole over the channel of the insert and close to the finger portion to permit the last remaining fluid to be used from the transparent section.
To replace the section in the barrel:
After all adjustments of the pen have been completed the transparent section must again be cemented into the barrel to insure a proper fit.
Spread a small amount of shellac around that part of the section which fits into the barrel, Do this carefully so no shellac touches the exposed part for the alcohol in the shellac will damage the finished surface.
Push the section into the barrel with the slit of the point in line with the lever.
Wipe off any shellac which might have pushed out at the joint.
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 23.
ASSEMBLING SACS IN TWIST-SAC PENS
- Shellac sac on transparent barrel end and allow time to dry thoroughly.
- Assemble sac and transparent barrel-end into barrel. The arrow on
the barrel and barrel-end should line up.
- With the hook end of the clamp pull the sae about one-half inch out of the thread end of the barrel (I) Illustration No. 30) and hold it. with the clamp. (Illustration No. 31)
- Shellac sac onto section.
- Allow time for the shellac t thoroughly dry then release the clamp and push section into barrel.
- Remove feed from section and look through section and sac by holding transparent barrel-end to Hght to see that the sac is not twisted.
When a new section is supplied see that it fits the barre] before the sac is attached.
- The section should be shellaced into the barrel when the repair is completed so the user cannot twist the sac by turning the section.
SHEAFFER´S REPAIR MANUAL 24.
PENCIL SERVICE
Experience has proven that Sheaffer pencils require very little servicing.
Should for any reason the mechanism fails, the practice is to remove it and supply a new one. This can be done with the proper tools but is not recommended for the average shop.
Many repairs shops report that the small number of Sheaffer pencils returned to them for service is not sufficient to make it worthwhile investing even a small amount in the necessary tools and assortment of mechanisms. However, tools and instructions will be supplied to any who desire them.
Here are some simple adjustments that can easily be made. On Sheaffer pencils:
- Roll end of lead magazine to tighten eraser fit. (Illustration No. 33)
- Raise corrugations on magazine to tighten cap fit. (Illustration No. 34)
- Drill out lead jams. (Illustration No. 35)
- Tighten tube in Balance cap by tightening screw inside cap with small screwdriver.
- Increase clip tension—Same as on pen clip.
FILLING A PLUNGER TYPE PEN
Unscrew cap at top of barrel and pull plunger out full distance (in case of desk pens unscrew quill); hold point within wide mouth of Skrip bottle.
Immerse entire point in Skrip, work plunger up and down several times, this cleans the pen and moistens the fissures in the fluid control.
The pen fills on the down stroke. For flushing purposes, pump plunger several times. On final down stroke allow point to remain in Skrip for ten seconds; tighten plunger cap or quill; wipe point clean with cloth or tissue.
NOTE: Changing weather conditions may cause water to appear in drop lets on the point. Do not confuse this condensation with leakage; simply wipe it off!
FILLING A LEVER TYPE PEN.
To fill your Lever type pen immerse the gold point in Skrip; open and close the lever; for flushing purposes open and close lever several times; allow point to remain in Skrip for ten seconds; remove and wipe point clean with cloth or tissue.
CLEANING OR WIPING INSTRUCTION TO AVOID COMPLAINTS ON FLOODING
Point, Feed, and finger grip must be wiped clean after filling. The feed on a Sheaffer pen serves as a sponge to absorb all surplus fluid which is fed to the writing point. If the combs of the feed are saturated from filling, they cannot take care of any extra fluid which might be expelled from the fluid chamber due to expansion of air inside the barrel. This condition will cause the pen to flood when there is absolutely nothing wrong with it mechanically. This inconvenience can be forestalled by carefully wiping the point, feed, and finger grip after each filling.
If you will look at the underside of the point, you will see the black feed with its: comb cuts or overflow reservoirs. These cuts will be full of fluid after the filling operation and this fluid should all be -drained away by applying an absorbent cloth or cleansing tissue to the slip of the point. When two spots of writing fluid as large as silver dollars appear on the cloth or tissue used for drying, or when the fluid stops draining off, the feed has been thoroughly emptied.
There are two types of nib units. One is as shown on illustration in which the nib is threaded onto the section, the other is a spun-on-assembly and can not be removed from the section.
IF PEN FAILS TO FLOW PROPERLY, check the spacing of the nib making sure that there is space of the proper dimension at the tips. If the tips are tightly closed; the pen cannot feed. To be able to see that the slit is open it may be necessary to draw a piece of paper through it to remove any foreign matter, ‘This operation may open the slit only temporarily. To see whether the adjustment is temporary or permanent invert nib from regular writing position and with a rolling motion apply a moderate amount of pressure to the writing tip. If spacing remains open, set is OK; if it closes, the tip of the feed should be heated and pulled away from contact with the nib. The spacing should then be readjusted; after which, this tip of the feed should be reheated and molded back against the gold nib.
If the pen still fails to feed properly, it may be that same foreign substance has become lodged in some of the small openings in the feed. Sometimes it is possible to remove this obstruction by flushing Sheaffer cleaning solution through the feed and nib assembly by the use of a rubber bulb.
This operation is as follows: Fill rubber bulb with Sheaffer’s cleaning solution. Insert writing end of nib and feed into opening in the bulb, forcing the unit in until all of the out away portion of the gold nib is covered. Then flush vigorously. Sometimes it is necessary to repeat the flushing a number of times.
If pen still fails to feed, s new unit or feed will have to be installed. In case of the screw-on type nib and section (as is shown on Illustration) the nib can be screwed off, the old feed removed, and new one inserted.
In screwing in unit, always poll out plunger first to avoid breaking off either plunger nut or throw-over tail.
To remove units, it may necessary to soften the head the barrel-end. To do this, immerse approximately 3/8″ to 1/2″ of the Radite in back of the nib into water (heat to head to approximately 130 degrees F). Care should be taken not to exceed this temperature as the feed may became loosened or the barrel-end distorted or enlarged.
LEAKS AT SEAL: We have a special solution called Sheaffer thread seal for sealing this joint. It must be heated to about 120 degrees F. or until it is about the consistency of heavy syrup. Start point unit into barrel end until 1/8″ space remains between barrel and gold nib. Spread seal evenly on thread. (Use a small wire or paper clip for this operation). Tighten point unit, grasping nib and feed firmly so that nib does not twist out of position in relation to the feed.
Remove surplus seal with gasoline. Care should be exercised in cleaning so that no seal will contact the feed or slit of the point. (This is the same mixture we are using at the factory with best results).
NOTE: The point of the feed should be centered over the slit in the gold point. If it has become twisted out of line, grasp feed tail with pliers and twist back into alignment. The feed should be twisted clock wise even if it is necessary to make a complete turn.
ASSEMBLING PLUNGER IN BARREL CAP: After the plunger has been assembled in the barrel, place the retaining nut on the plunger rod with the slotted end toward the barrel. Place a small amount of shellac on the threaded portion of the plunger rod. Grasp with rubber finger or pad and screw the ball plunger nut down tight against plunger rod shoulder.
Put the plunger nut-stop into the barrel cap. Next, so screw the retaining nut into barrel cap and screw down tight with look nut wrench shown as #15, page 6, in our regular repair manual. It may be necessary to grind or file the points of this tool down slightly so that they will
fit this slot. This assembly should permit the barrel cap to turn freely on the plunger rod.
The first few pens made were not equipped with the plunger mt stop. In this case, it will be necessary to drill out the barrel cap to a depth of 11/32″ using a 13/64″ diameter drill, which will permit an assembly as explained above.
Plunger can be assembled in barrel as shown in Repair Manual #F 29.
REPAIRING #23, #33, & #77 PENS: On all #23, #53, & #77 plunger pens it will be necessary before removing or inserting a plunger unit, to extract the section from the mouth of the barrel if it doesn’t come out when the feed is removed. The section can be removed with a 33 section puller. Note: The part referred to as the section in this type of pen is a small’ straight plastic sleeve which is inserted 4ts full length into the barrel and the spiral grip is part of the barrel.
The points are removed by working them loose in the section and pulling them out.
CLIP REPAIR: There are two types of clip assemblies; the spring type and ear type.
REPAIRING EAR TYPE CLIP: ‘The same procedure is followed for repairing ear type clips as has been used for repairing the balance line clip.
Only shops equipped with clipping arbors can handle such repairs, The inner cap, which is a small flat Radite disc, must first be removed by placing a narrow flat tool against the disc near the wall of the cap, opposite the clip and applying sufficient pressure to break it loose. After re-clipping, replace the inner cap; this inner cap seals off writing fluid from clip spring and air from the point.
SPRING TYPE CLIPS: The inner cap can be removed as illustrated above.
Should the clip come out or become loosened, the probable causes are that the clip spring has lost its tension, or that the joint on the clip box has become unsoldered.
After removing the inner cap, the clip spring will have to be pulled out. This may be done with needle nosed pliers. If the spring has lost its tension, replace spring, using clip spring assembling tool. If the soldered joint on the clip has been broken, supply new clip. After spring has been positioned with spring assembling tool, force spring into its proper depth by pushing vigorously on a rod similar to the plunger assembling tool.
TO REPLACE DISC INNER-CAP: Dip disc in Arabol cement using tweezers. Piece disc on a fiat end rod and place cap over rod, forcing disc firmly into position. Rotate cap on red to break cohesion between the disc and top of flat end rod. Do not allow sufficient surplus to remain on disc so that there is danger of the nib touching it and ruining the alignment after it is screwed in the cap.
REPLACING CAP THREAD SLEEVE: On the bead band type pen which uses a metal thread Sleeve, the sleeve is held in the cap with Arabol cement. The cement is applied freely to the reduced portion of the thread sleeve and the sleeve pushed into cap as far as possible. Wipe off excess cement with damp rag.
The later bead banded models do not have a metal thread sleeve. The bead is merely a strengthening band which is spun onto the end of the cap. The threads in this cap are cut directly into the Radite. These threads are of a special design which have been properly adjusted at the factory and no attempt should be made to rework them.
In caps having wider bands, assemble by applying Arabol cement as described above and force thread Sleeve into cap.
CAP STRIPS: If metal thread sleeve in cap is stripped, replace with new sleeve. If metal thread ring on barrel is stripped:
- Vac-fil pens
- On all vac-fil, which are equipped with vac-fil insert, replace barrel.
- On vac-fil pens equipped with new insert, replace thread ring.
- Lever-fil pens. Replace thread ring.